After many testshots I saw that D800 is remarkable good at high iso and -just for testing purpose- I made a portrait in lowlight condition (1 bulb of 60watt at 3 meters from my model)
Please notice that:
The purpose of this portrait at extreme high iso is only as a test to compare with D4 at the same insane high iso. I am sure though that for a small newpaper picture containing information that couldn't be captured otherwise this might work.
As D800 does not have an in-camera iso 102400 setting, I underexposed 2 stops at iso 25600 (6400 +2.0)
The exif:
To fit on this forum I resized to 1024 pix longest side.
The original file resized to 1024px longest side:
The original file straight out of the camera:(taken at iso6400-Hi 2.0 and 2 stops underexposed): http://www.myphotogallery.name/D800/p6/DSC_0347.JPG
And the same picture after some clicks opened through Adobe Bridge in ACR:
And one try in black and white...
D800-Portrait in lowlight at iso 102400...
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D800-Portrait in lowlight at iso 102400...
kindest regards,
Stany
I like better one good shot in a day than 10 bad ones in a second...
http://www.fotografie.cafe
Stany
I like better one good shot in a day than 10 bad ones in a second...
http://www.fotografie.cafe
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Re: D800-Portrait in lowlight at iso 102400...
You could put a Polaroid frame around it. Looks like old Polaroid to me
Now, seriously, you could take a bias frame with the cap on the lens, and substract it from the original to reduce the amplifier glow.
Now, seriously, you could take a bias frame with the cap on the lens, and substract it from the original to reduce the amplifier glow.
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Re: D800-Portrait in lowlight at iso 102400...
Hi Dominique,Dodi wrote:Now, seriously, you could take a bias frame with the cap on the lens, and substract it from the original to reduce the amplifier glow.
Thanks for your reaction.
Can you explain a little bit more?
kindest regards,
Stany
I like better one good shot in a day than 10 bad ones in a second...
http://www.fotografie.cafe
Stany
I like better one good shot in a day than 10 bad ones in a second...
http://www.fotografie.cafe
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- Joined: Tue 12 Apr 2011 10:25
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Re: D800-Portrait in lowlight at iso 102400...
How to correct amplifier glow at pushed high ISO with D800
People trying to make raw images at H2 or pushed H2 with the new Nikon D800 have surely already noticed the blue-magenta cast on the image, with a band running along the longer side of the image, likely caused by amplifier glow. Fwiw, even the D3s shows traces from it at extreme high ISO values. There is a fairly simple method to get rid of it in post processing and start with a much better image image color. The alternative is manually start to tweak the image, rather time consuming.
The original:
The only thing you need to do is make a bias frame to correct it. It's an image at approx the same exposure and ISO, but with lens cap on and viewfinder closed. You will obtain an image only containing the glow (and noise).
Open the raw images in a good image editor, with exactly the same settings. If you push the source image by a stop, also do so with the bias frame! Now subtract the bias frame (e.g. PS image calculation) from your light frame. Perhaps you need to tweak the percentage of subtraction, but it will be minor. The result will be a much better image to start with.
The sample show an H2 image, pushed one stop to 51k ISO.
The final result:
Dominique Dierick
People trying to make raw images at H2 or pushed H2 with the new Nikon D800 have surely already noticed the blue-magenta cast on the image, with a band running along the longer side of the image, likely caused by amplifier glow. Fwiw, even the D3s shows traces from it at extreme high ISO values. There is a fairly simple method to get rid of it in post processing and start with a much better image image color. The alternative is manually start to tweak the image, rather time consuming.
The original:
The only thing you need to do is make a bias frame to correct it. It's an image at approx the same exposure and ISO, but with lens cap on and viewfinder closed. You will obtain an image only containing the glow (and noise).
Open the raw images in a good image editor, with exactly the same settings. If you push the source image by a stop, also do so with the bias frame! Now subtract the bias frame (e.g. PS image calculation) from your light frame. Perhaps you need to tweak the percentage of subtraction, but it will be minor. The result will be a much better image to start with.
The sample show an H2 image, pushed one stop to 51k ISO.
The final result:
Dominique Dierick